Saturday, October 29, 2022

Epic Overlanding Adventure

Exploring the Grand Canyon's Northern Rim


I recently embarked on an unforgettable journey with 4Xploring along the Northern Rim of the Grand Canyon. This five-day, four-night adventure through the Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument was a true test of overlanding skills and a feast for the senses.

Find out all about What is 4Xploring in my YouTube video. 


Selfie on the edge of the Grand Canyon looking 900 feet down at the Colorado River.
Camping on the Northern Rim of the Grand Canyon

The Journey Begins: From Cheyenne to Mesquite

Our expedition kicked off at TNT Customs in Cheyenne, Wyoming. We embarked on a two-day trek to Mesquite, Nevada, our official starting point. We headed South to Colorado through the Rocky Mountains. It felt good to see those majestic mountain ranges again. It only confirmed I made the right choice to leave the Midwest and get back out to the Wild Wild West. There is so much adventure in those Rockies and still so much left for me to explore.


A creek on the side of the road in the Rocky Mountains.
Rocky Mountains


Overlanding Tip: Pre-Trip Preparation

  • Ensure your vehicle is in top condition
  • Pack essential off-road recovery gear
  • Bring plenty of water and non-perishable food


Adventure within an Adventure

As daylight faded, we sought a campsite in Cathedral Valley, Utah. Cathedral Valley, a remote location at the northern end of Capitol Reef National Park, is a hidden gem characterized by towering sandstone monoliths and vast desert landscapes. By the time we arrived, the sun had set, leaving only the stars to guide us. I quickly set up my ground tent in the dark, a familiar task for me. Afterward, I took a moment to marvel at the stunning night sky, filled with stars and the Milky Way.


Tent at night in Cathedral Valley


The next morning, I managed to pack my tent back into its original bag—an impressive feat! However, this was the only time I succeeded during the trip, though I came close a few times.
After packing up, we headed to Mesquite, Nevada, racing against the clock to check into our hotel by 3 PM. This stop was our last chance for amenities before embarking on a five-day overlanding adventure.


Selfie in Cathedral Valley

Packing up my tent in the original bag

Along the way we cut through Zion National Park. One of the five mighty National Parks in Utah. Zion is spectacular with breathtaking views. We took the scenic by-way through Zion. Utah has 28 scenic by-ways around the state. This by-way showcases stunning views of out-of-this-world rock formations, mounds, towers, and hilltops. Colorful layered strata of rusty red, orange, creams, yellow, and brown fill the views.  


Zion National Park

Rock Formations in Zion National Park


Day 1: Venturing into the Arizona Strip

Leaving Mesquite with full gas tanks and extra fuel, our convoy of 11 vehicles tackled the Virgin Mountains over Lime Kiln Pass. This rugged desert path is highlighted by rocky twisting canyons and vast high deserts filled with Joshua trees and red towering sandstone. 

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Airing down in Nevada

The Arizona Strip: A Vast Wilderness

Selfie on the trail 

The Arizona Strip, north of the Colorado River, offered 350 miles of untouched nature and no amenities. This remote area is a mix of Indian reservations and protected lands. The Strip is typical of the West with its red rock canyons and dry climate which leads to the vegetation of cacti grassland and sagebrush, to Junipers and Pinyon forests, and Ponderosas of Pines, Spruce, Fir, and Aspen trees on the Plateau. Plus, magnificent cliffs, spectacular canyons, and valleys filled this remote area. 


Southern Nevada

We meandered our way through a small section Gold Butte National Monument to our second mountain climb over Whitney Pass. Once over Whitney Pass, the high desert plains spread for miles called the Grand Gulch Canyon. The views were spectacular. The area is emote and vast. No crowds! No lines! Endless blue skies, isolated cattle corrals, lone cowboys (I saw one near the end of the trip), and one of the best places in the world to view the dark night skies.

Selfie from the passenger seat



We camped that night at an old abandoned mine near a solitary vista, Grand Gulch Mine. Mining engineers once said the mine contained some of the richest copper ore ever produced in the Arizona territory. However, the copper ore didn't mean getting rich quick. Ore was hauled four hundred miles by horse and wagon to Salt Lake City, Utah for smelting. A costly endeavor.  A slow expensive trip. In 1918 when WW1 ended the copper prices plummeted. The mine shut down for 20 years. 


Old Mining Truck

Then during WW2 the demand for copper rose again and Grand Gulch Mine came back to life. No longer using horse and wagon to haul the copper instead trucks successfully hauled out the ore. Copper mining continued until a fire in 1955 that destroyed the main buildings. Eventually, in 1958, the miners abandoned the mine.


My tent during sunset

The lights from Vegas

It was a great night up on the Grand Gulch Mine's unpaved airstrip with the Upper Grand Wash Cliffs in the background. The light pollution from Las Vegas was still visible on the horizon, but the stars were abundant. 

Overlanding Tip: Night Sky Photography

  • Bring a tripod for long-exposure shots
  • Use a red light to preserve night vision

Day 2: Grand Canyon Views at Snap Point


Cooking breakfast

Bob, Mary, and the crew were preparing a gourmet meal while the guests got to know each other on the first night of this amazing adventure. Korean meal of Beef Bulgogi with a gigantic chocolate chip cookie and ice cream for dessert. The next morning was more great food, as a gourmet breakfast was served.

Overland Prep Cooking Tips from Bob ðŸ‘‰ Watch Here

Dutch Oven 👉 Buy Here

Five layer Egg Bake 

Breakfast was absolutely delicious, a five-layer egg bake cooked in a dutch oven.  Once our bellies were full it was time to hit the trail.

Overlanding Tip: Camp Cooking

  • Invest in a quality Dutch oven for versatile cooking
  • Pre-plan meals and pack ingredients efficiently


Northern Arizona Strip


Our morning started out on dusty desert paths surrounded by Arizona's majestic mesas. We were headed to Snap Point for our first look at the Grand Canyon. It's the official western end of the Grand Canyon North Rim. 


Grand Canyon


The road to Snap Point is deeply rutted and during certain parts of the year can be closed.  The deeper you drive into the trail the tighter the squeeze as the bushes are taking over the dirt road. Definitely expect scrapes and scratches on your vehicle. 


Me on the edge of the Grand Canyon


The squeeze was getting a little tight, so we found a small clearing at the edge of the high cliffs. We decided to get out here for our view here. It was simply breath taking.


Gladiator with roof top tent


After our amazing first view of the Canyon, we went back through what I named pinstripe alley. Then it was on to Twin Point for our second night of camping under the stars.


Selfie on the Grand Canyon


We arrived to camp early in the afternoon which gave the guests of 4Xploring a chance to chill on the scenic vista. The majestic cliffs sparkled with color as the sun began to set. 

Bob and his crews were busy preparing another fantastic meal for dinner. This time a Dutch oven Italian dish

Overlanding Tip: Protecting Your Vehicle

  • Be prepared for tight squeezes and potential scratches
  • Consider installing brush guards or rock sliders

Day 3: The Rough Road to Kelly Point


Eggs and Sausage in the dutch oven


Day 3 started with a hearty breakfast of sausage and egg pinwheels. Another Yummy breakfast from Bob and the crew that did not disappoint.  


My ten at Twin Point Overlook


We spent the night at Twin Point Overlook with the most spectacular views. Our next destination was a journey to Kelly Point tested our off-road skills with 4-5 hours on one of the roughest and slowest roads in the National Parachant Monument.  of rough terrain.


Grand Canyon


Old Ranch building


But first a pit stop at the Waring Ranch.  A remote homestead and ranch established by Jonathan Deyo Waring in 1925. The site has cabins, corrals, fence lines, water tanks, and two holding ponds. Cattle ranching back in the day was the main economic activity for the settlers in this remote arid land. 


Fence post


Jonathan Waring grew up in New York State, however, he admired Teddy Roosevelt and the ment of the Rough Riders. Waring was intrigued by the cowboys, miners, hunters and gamblers so he headed West to Phoenix. Later his adventures lead him to the Arizona Strip via Grand Gulch Mine. Something about the strip called to him and he began acquiring government land. 

 

Ranch Fence Posts


Preston Nutter, an Arizona Strip cattle baron, was a rival of Waring's.  Both ran cattle at the same time and both believed they owned a certain parcel of land at the rim of the Grand Canyon. When Nutter built a fence around the contested parcel,  Waring retaliated by burning it down. 

Gravesit of Johnathan Waring


Later ironically Waring was drafted into the U.S. Army to serve during World War I. He ended up in the in the Argonne Forest trenches of France, fighting in the largest offensive in United States Military history. He later returned to the Arizona Strip to acquire more land and cattle eventually selling his land to the National Park Service. The Waring Ranch is now a historic National monument.


Mary making beer bread

Back into our Jeeps, it was time for the bouncy four hours to our next stop. Then Bob and his crew whipped up some Hungarian Goulash while Mary baked us some tasty beer bread. Then ended the meal with hot fudge brownie and ice cream.

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Overlanding Tip: Comfort on the Trail

  • Invest in quality shock absorbers for a smoother ride
  • Bring comfortable seating for camp


Day 4-5: Colorado River Views and Ancient Art

After our tasty breakfast of blueberry pancakes and sausage plus the spectacular sunrise at Kelly Point it was back to wheeling. 


Blueberry pancakes and syrup

Jeeps on the trail

We headed back out the 27 miles from the point to the Waring Ranch, then on to our next location point overlooking the Colorado River with views that will take your breath away. 


Selfie on the edge of the Grand Canyon

It was an amazing adventure with beautiful views, delicious Dutch oven meals, and meeting new friends.  We were on an overland adventure along the northwestern rim Grand Canyon. Our overnight camping stops were overlooks located in Parashant National Monument including some of the most remote locations in the continental United States. 


Selfie on the edge of the Grand Canyon


Our last day on the Arizona Strip was fabulous. Bob ad the crew filled our bellies with the best breakfast yet, Waffle Egg Bake. It was like a Quiche from a Dutch Oven.


Selfie with the Colorado River below


A few last views of the Colorado River and we were back on the trail. There were a couple more surprises waiting for us before we made it back to civilization.


Petroglyph's


Our first stop was the Nampaweap Petroglyphs. Nampaweap is site of several petroglyph's. Petroglyph's are rock carvings made by using a stone chisel or rock hammer.


Cave with pictographs

Our next stop was a random cave on the strip full of rare color pictographs. Then the long trek back to civilization.


campfire

.Overlanding Tip: Respecting Nature and History

  • Practice Leave No Trace principles
  • Observe petroglyphs and pictographs from a distance


An Unforgettable Overlanding Experience

This Grand Canyon adventure was more than just an off-road trip. It was a journey of self-discovery, filled with breathtaking landscapes, delicious meals, and new friendships. The Arizona Strip's remote beauty and challenging terrain make it a must-visit destination for any serious overlander


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